Restoration of a Stuart 600 - Nigel Mcburney      
 
                                            Part 2

Nearly two years ago I made a start on restoration, I had run it when we bought it, so I gave it another run before restoration ,before I run any long standing engine I always check that all bearing, valves and rockers etc are working, lubricated and working freely.

The petrol tank was partially filled and the engine given a wind, on the second wind away it went, just as it had always doneand I had not cleaned the Amal carb, when I reassembled the engine, about 18 months later it would not start. When I previously started it with petrol free from ethanol rubbish the carb jets did not block up in 20 years, on petrol with ethanol the carb jets were blocked solid in 18 months despite running the engine with the fuel tap shut until it stopped. The exterior parts stripped off easily, even the exhaust stud nuts came off,and Charles must have put some graphite on the threads. The crankshaft can be tricky to remove due to the close fit of the big end oil flinger and the close proximity, it is far better to remove the flywheels first, they weigh 25 lbs each. All the bearings moving parts and piston rings were in good order so not a great deal of work apart from grime and old paint removal. When I got to the bare crank bed ,cylinder and head I could see potential problems, through the cooling water ports, there was lots of chalk deposits in the cooling water passages, this can be a problem, with poor cooling and the risk of flakes of chalk deposit blocking the drain passages, leaving some water in the cylinder/head passages and the subsequent possibility of frost damage

 

 So it was one of those times for decisions do I risk potential damage by leaving alone or just bite the bullet and remove the cylinder from the bed, and the head from the cylinder ? ..........

To be Continued

 



                        Click here for part 3
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
     
   
Last Updated: September 2020
     
   
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